Monday, March 7, 2011

The trek to the elusive Hadrian's Wall

So we headed up this way in 1994 in search of Hadrian's wall, on the way to the search for the Loch Ness Monster...only one was found and it wasn't the wall. I don't know why I wanted to see it so much but I did and armed with our English Heritage guide book, we worked our way up the East coast. 
After a very good nights sleep once again on the ferry, we found our car safe and sound and thankfully somewhat warm due to the high rise car park, and set off in search of romans once again. Our first stop along the way was to be Skipsea castle which our English heritage book describes as 'An impressive Norman motte and bailey castle'. Now, it is open all hours so we were especting ruins and we had a contest to see who could guess its appearance the best Glenn 'A big mound with three stones' I poo pooed him with 'No way, at least a big mound with half a wall and rubble'. We pulled into the car park, trod very carefully through the mud and it appeared before us....'who was right' I hear you ask; neither, this is the only time English Heritage had misled us in the slightest so here it is










Don't be too disappointed for us, it was actually really cool to climb the hill and survey the surrounding fields and then direct Glenn to take silly poses so I could capture him for posterity.



 Left over doughnuts on the boat had worn low in our bellies so we decided to stop for some real brekky at about 10am in Skipsea. We drove round spying for warm, welcoming but cheap cafes and it wasn't too long before we dropped on 'Emma's Diner'. Two hot drinks, one full vegetarian breakfast and two slices of toast for me for 4.95pounds; can you believe it? and, they had a toilet and a personal heater at our table. I should probably mention that the toilet was not at the table. It was great food and great service and we set off feeling pretty good about life.
On to Scarborough Castle. We expected a lot, what with the mention it gets in songs etc but as we approached and saw the park and ride, we got concerned that we were going to once again spend our day fighting with traffic and parking machines. We were thrilled to find ourselves in a beautiful town of lovely buildings, bridges, brightly coloured beach huts, beaches and sparkling sunshine coming through the clouds and lighting up the sea in one small but magnificent spot. Realizing that this was not a large centre, I worked out that the park and ride was probably there for the hoardes who would flock in for their day at the seaside not too long from now. I can safely say that I would rather visit places when it is cold and cloudy and almost empty than when it is warm and sunny and packed with people.












Scarborough castle surpassed our expectations; it burst into view from its commanding position on the headland as we pulled onto the delightful coast road filled with penny arcades and funfair related establishments and as we drove up the winding route towards it, we knew we were in for a treat.

There is a 3000 year history of defence at this site, from prehistoric settlers to the Roman invaders, Henry the 2nd in the 12thC, the civil war and finally, attacks by the Germans in 1914 and as a secret listening post in WW11. As two of only about 6 people here, we again had the amazing opportunity to walk the grounds and take photo's alone and with great atmosphere. The walls were again massive and the views spectacular and we were also lucky enough to have Ann Bronte's grave pointed out to us by some walkers as we walked down the hill back to our car. If I lived in England, I too would find Scarborough one of the most desirable places in the country to take my seaside holiday; it was beautiful.








Up the coast we went to the magnificent Whitby Abbey. We grumbled about having to pay for the car park, but then discovered the 'back' entrance is not open during winter; this meant a 15 min walk arounda wall that blocked the view of the abbey and there was considerably more grumbling during that time. Whether religious or not, you have to marvel at the size and design of these abbeys and, feel great sympathy for those who inhabited them when good old Henry the 8th couldn't divorce his wife and decided to start his own religion, thus forcing the benedictines to either convert or be beheaded; I knew there was a reason I didn't like Henry! Besides the whole beheading of wives of course.
















A late lunch and an early arrival at our hotel The Campanile, in the original Washington, as the sign tells you when you enter. Another lovely room with all our needs met. Glenn ordered dinner from dominoes using the free wi-fi then set off in the hope of finding it before it was past its best. This was weird; I sat watching the website as our order moved from 'preparation' to 'baking' to 'quality check' and then the phone rang and I thought 'Noooooo, he's lost and our dinner will be cold, not to mention the mental hell he's going through....but, ye of little faith, he was sitting outside the shop and wanted to know if the order was ready because he was illegally parked and didn't want to wait. A very yummy pizza, wedges and chocolate dessert later and two big bellies slept very soundly.


hehe.. Nic didnt mention how yummy the chocolate cake was...



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